Building a Teflon/Stainless Steel Fuel Line


The fittings used are reusable, which I find to be a better system.

The first step, obviously, is to cut your
hose to length. As I'm sure you know, measure twice and cut once. Use an appropriate reinforced cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool (good) or an airsaw (better).

In this pic, you can see that I used painters tape. While it may seem counter-intuitive, painters tape or masking tape are much more effective than electrical tape at limiting frayed stainless steel when you complete the cut.

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In this pic, you can see the various parts that we have. Excuse the mixed fitting brands - the blue component is made by Goodridge, and the silver cap and brass ferrule are Aeroquip. Having used both brands'
fittings now, I can honestly say that there are small but significant differences - and I prefer the Aeroquips (which also happen to be available in more places than the Goodridge fittings).

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So let's get to it. Slip the 'cap' over the end of your line and push it back until it clears the end. Avoid 'crushing' the edges of the stainless braided line, as a jumbled up mess can interfere with the seal of the fitting.

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What I tried to show here - and failed miserably - is that when you slip the ferrule over the end of the teflon liner, you want to make sure that it slides far enough so that the end of the liner bottoms out against the bottom of the ferrule. If you do not make sure that the ferrule is all the way on the liner, it will leak. Trust me on that one.

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This may or may not be advised, but it's helped me tremendously. I use dielectric grease - a very thin layer - on the shaft of the fitting before inserting it into the ferrule.

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Gently insert the fitting into the ferrule.

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There are ridges on the inside surface of the ferrule. As you push the fitting in, you'll feel it pass along the ridges. It's important that the teflon liner not get pushed back through as you feed the fitting into the ferrule.

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Now push the
hose end down until it meets the threads of the fitting. Bonus points if you have a vise - and more bonus points for using a rag or soft jaws to avoid marring the finish on the anodized aluminum fittings.

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Take your time, and - ideally - pressure test the lines before installation.




 

 

Stainless Fuel Line, fittings and install tips


I just wanted to share my knowledge with people who are cutting and fitting various typed of hose and fittings and hopefully make their install a bit less painless http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif

For my example I'll be using Earl Performance -8AN
Auto Flex hose and an -8 AN 90* Swivel seal hose end.

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You'll need a sledge hammer and a Hammer chisel. Everything can be found at
Home Depot or Lowes. Make sure to sharpen up the chisel before use!

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Using a block of billet aluminum (prefered) or steel, as this will make the chisel cut thru the
hose nicely. I used a piece of Aluminum sheet on my concrete floor.
Make sure to center the chisel and line it up straight.

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Give it a couple of good whacks until the cut end shoots off.

It should have a nice clean cut every time. No tape needed.

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Put the Female fitting into a vise and get ready to install the
hose. You can wrap it in a towel to protect the surface if you'd like. Russell also sells a soft billet piece that forms to the fittings and fits right in your vice.
Install the bottom part of the host first and then use the screwdriver to press in the top portion without unthreading the
hose.
Some types of
fittings will require you to "twist" in the hose in order to seat onto the fitting correctly!

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Now install the Male end onto the vise and make sure to leave enough overhand for the
hose end. spray WD40, or motor oil or whatever you'd like to use.
Now, grab onto the
HOSE ONLY and using a pushing/twisting method, thread it on as far as you can go before breaking out the wrench. This will ensure a tight seal and leak free installation!

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Now just tighten it up with an AN wrench or adjustable wrench.