STEP 2, INSTALL THE SFC'S
Lay an old blanket or towels down on the floor.
The SFCs weigh around 20lbs each and I guarantee you
will drop one to the floor at least once. You don't
want to scratch that pretty powdercoating!
You have three choices when fitting the SFC to
the car: create a custom spacer, grind down the lips
on the rear chasis, or you can bore out the SFC
Take a look at
the downward facing side of the chasis towards the
rear of the subframe near the Lower Control Arm
(LCA) bolt, and note that the holes in front of the
rear control arm bolt (where the SLP bolt goes
through) has about a 1/8" lip around the hole from
the stamping process.
A. Create a
custom spacer the same thickness of the lip and
install it between the rear SFC mounting plate and
the rear subframe.
B. Use an air grinder with a 3M style pad to grind
the lips off. The metal is soft and flattens easily.
Be careful not to grind any more than necessary and
brush on black Rustoleum where the metal is bare.
C. Bore out the SFC holes during the fit check as
described later on.
Next, loosen and remove the four bolts that hold
the cross car brace to chassis, located under
tranmision output shaft.
Locate the two bolts and nuts that hold the
front ends of rear lower control arms (lca) to
chassis. NOTE: Only one lca bolt should be
disconnected at a time, otherwise the rear end could
The drivers side is the hardest because of the
heat shield so lets get that out of the way first.
Remove the rear lca bolt that is nearest the
front of the car. Hold the sfc up at the rear and
align the sfc tab with the lca bolt hole then
re-install the lca bolt.
Hold the sfc up at the front and mark where you
will need to cut the metal heatshielding that covers
the fuel lines. Remove the heat shield to trim it
with tin snips, there's a picture of how we trimmed
You need to rearrange the lines. There is one
large line and two small lines. There is one main
clamp on the car body and another smaller clamp
between the two smaller lines. Remove the smaller
clamp between the two smaller lines.
Notice on the main clamp that there are extra
channels/notches above the channels/notches being
used. MOve each line one notch up on the main clamp.
To do this you will need to loosen the main clamp
and the forward heat shield. After that I also used
a small tie wrap to secure the lower smaller line to
the upper smaller line.
Re-install the heat shield, here is what it
looks like with the heat shield reinstalled.
Here is how that area looks after the SFC is on.
Install the two different nut plates into the
frame rails. The double threaded hole plate goes
through the gap in the front frame rail and the
single threaded plate goes in the square opening of
the rear rail where your lower control arm is.
Check to see how the holes in the sfc line up
with your cars underbody. I think you will find one
or more of the holes in the sfc will need to be made
larger to line up with the under body. When they
weld the underbody parts at the factory there's no
thought of someone putting on sfc so each car might
be a little different plus the more miles your car
has on it the more flexing it has done.
While you are checking for the hole alignment,
keep the sfc on the lca bolt. Tighten down the lca
nut on the lca bolt, but leave it loose enough where
you can swing the sfc up and down to check on the
hole alignment progress. Bore out the holes in place
under the car with the sfc hanging down. Use an
electric rotary tool grinder like a Dremel or a
grinder bit on your power drill. Mark any holes that
need to be made larger (only remove enough metal in
the area that need be, not the whole hole). I used
white out to mark the edge of the hole where it
needed to be enlarged.
Once all the holes are lined up loose'ly fit the
sfc (do not tighten the two center bolts until both
sides and the cross car brace are on) When
installing the bolts that come with the kit put the
lock washer on the bolt first and then the flat
washer. Bolts with the SLP SFC's have 16mm (5/8in)
The passenger side is about the same but there's
no heat shield to trim.
Once you have both sides on, re-install the
cross brace you took off. The subframe connectors
should be closest to the chasis and cross car brace
goes over that.
Torque the bolts in the following order: Center
cross car brace, Front/rear side bolts (any bolts
SLP sent), LCA bolts.
Cross Car Brace (center) bolts 27 ft/lbs;
Front/rear side bolts (any bolts SLP sent) 59 ft/lbs
LCA nut 70 ft/lbs (bolt head 87 ft/lbs).
I should mention here that we used red Lock-tite on
all the bolts that came with the kit.
After about 50 miles or so you should check the
tightness of each bolt. There are 12 bolts
altogether. To aid in spot checks you can mark the
position of one corner of each bolt or place a small
bead of JB weld along one edge of each bolt head
during the initial install. Any movement from the
mark or a crack in the JB compound would indicate a
change in tightness.